Author Topic: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder  (Read 19958 times)

Vermin King

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #55 on: July 23, 2015, 10:49:43 PM »
You are doing a really fine job with this.  Thanks for letting us follow along
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Rcav8tr2

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #56 on: July 30, 2015, 02:19:05 PM »
Finishing up the drivers hatches with episcopes.  Many small parts and sub-assemblies. Parts shown for one of the two hatches.



Dry assembly to check fit.



More assemblies completed





Slight adjustment to episcope opening.



Completed less hinges.







Other hatch assembly before touchup



After touchup



Slightly modified hinge plate with prototypical recessed bolt head.  Just punched out first layer bolt location, laminated plate and placed bolt head into opening.



Working on hinges installation now.  Planning on fixed hinge with folding hinge plate to simulate working hinge.  I need to ensure hinge positioning permits hatches to properly close since the hatches nest into the hull hatch way.

Dave Winfield

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #57 on: July 30, 2015, 02:55:14 PM »
Just a tip...
to allow the hatches to open and close easily, the periscopes must be allowed to swivel
and move up and down (through the hatches).

I admit, the periscopes themselves, might be a little overscale.
I purposely made the periscope tubes longer to allow for some in and out movement, as well as swivel.

You have to juggle the position of the periscopes to allow the two hatches to pass each other and close.

My hatches do open and close, but every time I do it, I risk damaging the edges of periscope parts.








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Rcav8tr2

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #58 on: July 30, 2015, 11:44:40 PM »
Excellent !  Thanks for the tip on the episcopes.  I played with the real things as a kid and recalled that they could pivot, so I fortunately didn't glue mine.  I kept thinking that the model isn't a toy so glue them...good thing I didn't.  I've been fiddling with the hatches and hinges to check fitting.  Knowing that you need to move them to open / close helps.





I added some cyano to bottom of hinge / hull hinge plate joint to reinforce it then glued into position after rolling hatch hinge plate.



My hull top deck is still not glued which is proving helpful to set the hatch hinge locations, you can turn the top deck over to be sure the hatches nest into the opening.  My reuse of misprints is evident here and you can see the film of cyano.



Mocked up installation of hatches waiting for me to get confidence to glue them.



I'm very cautious before applying glue due to my earlier problems with scaling and being new to this.  Dave's instructions to test fit before gluing and Vermin King's advice to "Dry-fit a couple times before gluing" has proven to be crucial.  Thanks to you both.

edit: added full size pictures




Vermin King

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #59 on: July 31, 2015, 09:03:11 AM »
It's all looking very good so far.
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Dave Winfield

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #60 on: July 31, 2015, 10:29:11 AM »
Not sure if this was mentioned, or if you are aware,
but I'll mention it anyway...

I have a YouTube channel and have posted about four videos that cover apects of the Centurion build.
Not sure that they will help you in anyway, but its fun to see parts in 3D/reallife.

https://www.youtube.com/user/davescardcreations?feature=mhum
DAVE WINFIELD - GO TO WWW.CUTANDFOLD.INFO FOR MY DESIGNS AND LOTSA FREE STUFF!

Rcav8tr2

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #61 on: August 02, 2015, 08:29:02 AM »
Thanks for the mention of your videos, I have seen two of your Centurion videos previously which are helpful.  I've subscribed to your channel and need to see the others.  I watched the 2013 International Paper Modelers Convention - Sterling Virginia, amazing models and skills shown by the participants!

Rcav8tr2

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #62 on: August 18, 2015, 12:12:23 PM »
Making slow progress, I'm a slow builder with limited time which has been even more limited by my 100 year old mother-in-law being admitted to hospital and now a "Rapid Recovery" facility.  You can't just drop off a loved one in hospital and walk away.  There isn't enough staff to ensure what is needed is provided...

Back to the tank!  Made a little progress on the rear drive gear case and rear sprocket.  Rear case has a curved gusset to simulate curved rear inner surface.  I failed on first attempts and finally settled on gluing back face first then adding gusset before closing up the case.  Sprockets are fun to cut, can hardly wait until I have to do road wheels.













Burnished inside of rear cover to make slightly less angular and will need to add some touchup paint after stiffening webs are added.  Dabbing paint should replicate cast surface nicely.





The sprocket shaft part No. 131 is not symmetrical in length, I'm not sure which way to orient it.  My assumption is that the outer sprocket fits on the end with shorter overhang.  I'll hold off gluing until fitting treads to ensure the orientation and spacing is right, then hit it with a bit of cyano. 

A little Silver Leaf Rub'n Buff applied with a finger tip to the sprockets gives silvery sheen without looking like painted on silver.





Dave Winfield

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #63 on: August 18, 2015, 01:00:04 PM »
very informative!
DAVE WINFIELD - GO TO WWW.CUTANDFOLD.INFO FOR MY DESIGNS AND LOTSA FREE STUFF!

Rcav8tr2

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #64 on: August 21, 2015, 06:53:55 PM »
Working on one of the rear drive sprocket assemblies.  I had a question in earlier post about orientation of the shaft which becomes obvious when you start to add the gusset details.



Adding castellated nut detail to hub.







Bolt heads made from two layers of card.



Basically finished hub with inside sprocket not glued yet to permit later adjustment to suit treads.

Dave Winfield

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Re: Canadian Centurion with 20 Pounder
« Reply #65 on: August 21, 2015, 07:07:02 PM »
Quote
Hi!  I have been having problems making the three layer tubes required for the Centurion rear drive sprocket axles part No. 122. 
I've tried and failed several times to glue the three parts to achieve the proper alignment of the segments and the correct diameter.



I've cut out the three parts which obviously nest together to make a three layer tube with opposing seams.



I've pre-formed the segments, have a mandrel sized to the first layer and my Aleene's glue.  I've tried butting the first layer and gluing it together then adding the next layer and trying to slide the second layer butt joint together before the glue grabs. Then the same with the third but there must be an easier way.  I've been lucky making smaller sized multi-layer tubes by just massaging the glued pieces into place, but these larger tubes are proving to be a problem.   What is the best assembly sequence and gluing approach?  Thanks in advance for the help!


Okay, this is a simple mistake.

Part 122 is one part...not three.
Its divided into three sections so you can see how far to roll each layer.
And to give you a precise diameter at the end.
The final tube will be three layers thick, and will be green all the way around with no overlap.
(Also, no white showing)
Each roll of the tube should end at the line of each section.
Each section gets a little bigger to compensate for the increased diameters.

I apologize for not putting more explanation on the page about how to roll the part.
I assumed it was obvious....my error.

DAVE WINFIELD - GO TO WWW.CUTANDFOLD.INFO FOR MY DESIGNS AND LOTSA FREE STUFF!