Author Topic: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project  (Read 3233 times)

Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #33 on: June 10, 2016, 01:28:15 PM »
Re: the front hatch inside hardware...

been messing around with various ideas for the handles, mechanism, periscope accessories that go inside the front hatch
and the bottom line is it is a complicated mess of small objects, levers, brackets, springs and other devices.

Too small to render in anything but a lot of hard-to-assemble little parts.
My goal is to come up with something that gives you some sort of realism,
but it done in the "dave" style of fewest parts and simplest construction.

Eventually I came up with this...
I think it has room for modification (to satisfy those who want a bit more realism).
Theres no point in trying to please the hardcore modellers, because they throw out all my parts anyway,
and scratchbuild their own thing!

I have since modified the height of the brackets on that handle bar...made them a bit shorter.



...
I also tackled the rear Hull and the vent area for the radiator/engine bay.
The cover plate is cut out, with divided openings,  and raises up at the center to meet with the angled Engine Covers.

I've recreated the parts with double layer cardstock on all the parts.
A bit fiddly because of its size, but not too difficult to assemble.



...
It just drops in place on top of the Hull and is glued down permanently.
It covers the Hull sides and rear Bulkhead.

Not much to see in that rear hole, but you can see the liner colour and fake radiator on the rear bulkhead.



...
Funny thing is, on the real thing, the large venting holes are to large to leave uncovered.
I guess the back end of the car must fill up with trash!

So, the vents are covered with a wire mesh screen panel.
I've tried to simulate, with artwork, the divider openings underneath the grille mesh.

Its way too small to make real mesh, and cut out all the holes,
so once it is in place it hides the actual divided vent assembly.
Seem a shame to go to all the trouble of making those dividers and then hiding them.



...
I am going to include two rear deck parts.
One with the openings...you can install the dividers...and add the grill part if you like.
And a second part with the mesh grille already in place.
Artwork will simulate the mesh grille and the openings underneath.

The builder can choose which way to go.


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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #34 on: June 12, 2016, 06:53:35 PM »
No paper model work today...had another Toy and Collectible Show!
I sell Toys and Diecast at local Collectible Shows throughout the year.
Today I was selling more Hot Wheels.

Not a very good day for sales.
Should've stayed home.
lol
but then again...

did plenty of walking around and gawking at other Vendor's tables (as I usually do)
although I try to avoid buying anything.
The goal is to get rid of stuff...not bring more crap home!

Plus, stuff is usually way overpriced.
(Not my stuff of course.)

There were a few guys selling old Corgi and Matchbox toys.
I found some Miltary stuff...and I searched for a Corgi Saladin
(even though I knew it would be way too expensive)
I just wanted to see one again.

And then I came across a vendor with a handful of little diecast toys on a shelf.
Two ugly (Russian?) tanks, and a trailer, and a couple of Army trucks...and this little thing...



Not going to provide me any sort of real reference for my paper model,
but its complete...still got its paint and all six wheels...
Turret rotates...and its Gun Barrel is still intact!...and moves up and down!!

Made in Hong Kong, from Playart, it is labelled "Saladin Mk II".
About 1/64 scale metal diecast.

One Dollar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kind of makes up for the poor Hot Wheels sales.
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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #35 on: June 17, 2016, 03:43:20 PM »
So, lets run through the basic construction of the Engine covers.
I have changed the design a few times, and the photos are mixed from varied attempts,
but it should illustrate the basic assembly.

The Covers themselves are cut out as a single part...six covers.
You can separate them if you want...or score down the center to form
two banks of angled covers (3 on each side).

Two layers require you to cut out the top and bottom sides
and glue them together.
Because of the underside panel lines, I couldn't rely on a solid colour
panel for the underside.
I will edge colour all the parts at this point.

Also note: the strips that are the overlapping parts between each cover.


...
After I glued the top and bottoms, I will trim the edges again.
Make sure all those slight overhangs are gone.
And then I will edge colour all the parts for a second time.

As you can see, I cut the panel in half, right and left engine covers.
I also scored the lines between the engine covers.
The topsides are covered, but the underside panel divisions are still seen.


...
After all the overlap strips are attached.

The notched strips glue flat to the covers.
The straight strips at the end are spaced with an additional thin strip.
I have since eliminated this spacer.
So, all overlap strips now glue flat to the panels.



...
Here I am assembling the angled box baffles that go around each opening (on each engine cover).
Two strips...scored and folded...make up each baffle assembly.

The insides are visible from underneath, thats why they are coloured.
I started to colour the unprinted topsides, but realized they are completely hidden underneath
the Caps that go on each cover.


...
Here are all the parts, ready to assemble, including:
the small supporting brackets for the Engine cover Caps ...and the six Caps.

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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #36 on: June 17, 2016, 03:46:06 PM »
Engine Covers continued...

The Baffle box is attached to the Cover at the center opening.
I just edge glued them in place at the indicated lines.

Then, cut and glue in place, the four brackets.
Their positions are pre-marked. basically the center of each side.
The long direction brackets are fatter than the other two, so ts important to cut them right
and install them correctly.
24 of these little brackets must be installed.


...
The little brackets extend above the edges of the baffle boxes.
The Caps sit against the brackets, leaving a gap between the baffles and the caps.
I just put a dab of glue on the ends of the four brackets,
and centerd the caps in place.


...
From the underside, you can see the gap which is how the engine covers allow air into the engine bay.

At this point I realized the undersides of the caps were uncoloured and visible.
I tried colouring with a green marker, but it didn't look too good.
I have since added a rectangular coloured insert piece for the Caps.




...
The Hinge design changed quite a few times...I didn't bother photographing all the early attempts.
I settled on this simple hinge design...one part, rolled...with an extension to attach it to the Engine Cover.

Before or after the part is rolled, it needs to be scored and folded at the base of the extension.
This will be the folding "hinge".
I had success with a similar idea on the Centurion model.
The cardstock appears to be strong enough to survive repeated folding along a creaseline.

I rolled every hinge around a 1.12mm wire (unfolded PaperClip).
I was going to use the wire to align all the Hinges, but to be honest, if you glue the Hinges in place
at the marked locations, they align pretty easily.


...
Glue all 12 Hinges onto the Covers, at the marked locations.
Note the right and left placement of each pair of Hinges.


...
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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #37 on: June 17, 2016, 03:48:40 PM »
Engine Covers continued...once more...


Attaching the hinges to the vehicle is simple.  The rolled tube of each Hinge glues flat to the surface.

Actually, they glue flat to small plates...not shown in these photos.
I found that I had measured wrong...my little base plates were too small.
So I removed the plates with the intention of printing new ones at the correct size.

Unfortunately I forgot about this (a few minutes later) and I glued the Hinges directly to the Hull.!


...
You can see the glue squeezing out from under one of the Hinges.

For this test, I'll not worry about the plates.
At least I will be able to see how well the Hinges work.
But the kit will have some base plates to go under the Hinges.


...

I still have to make the supports for the two rear Hinges that hang out past the body.
Just some angle iron brackets welded to the sides of the Hull.

but the Hinges seem to work really well,
although the paper has to relax with time.
Right now, the Hinges and hatches want to stay shut!

Moving on...





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Tapcho

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #38 on: June 18, 2016, 04:11:07 AM »
Impressive!

Tappi

Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #39 on: June 21, 2016, 05:03:40 PM »
Nothing major to report this time...
just adding a few small details.

I've actually been tied up with a new Mustang kit this week.
Time to put something into the store, and drum up some business!
I should release that RAF Herc too!?


Anyway...finished up the front (Driver's) Periscopes.



...
And some of the small surface details on either sides of the Engine Bay.
Seriously...small.
Took me about an hour to prepare all these little details...not difficult...just very small parts.

There are six "posts"...bumper stops for the Engine Hatches?
And various small bracketry for Tools, etc
Also installed the small support brackets for the rear most Engine Cover Hinges.

Not sure if I'll add tools or any accessories...not a big concern at this point.





...
Also, finally, fitted the side Escape Hatch covers.
Not sure if one or two card layers is necessary.
I added a second layer, just to see what it looks like.
I think one layer is fine for this part.
Its a fairly flush fitting Hatch.



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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #40 on: June 29, 2016, 07:22:53 PM »
Still a little sidetracked with the Instruction pages
...I'd rather get caught up on that before I get too far ahead with the build.

But I did find some time to start work on the side "fenders".
Is that what we will call them? Fenders?



Yes...I know...it looks cool in this colour (above)!
LOL
I guess I know what the second version will look like.


...
Anyway...I laid out the basic shape of the Fenders
with the angled rear sections, and multi-angled front sections.



...
I had to split up the parts to allow them to fit on the Parts pages.
But the entire fender is made up of smaller sections anyway...
and the center section has to be removed to allow access to the side hatches.
So, it was a no brainer to split the parts up, using that center section as the joiner.

The folded down side edges of the fenders are the templates for folding the end sections.
Care must be taken not to distort the shape of these thin side strips,
but it seems to be easy enough to handle.



...
A second layer is added to all these parts.
This will hopefully provide the underside colouring...hide all the white surfaces...
and provide double layer strength to the card parts.

I'm finding it difficult to make the shapes and sizes exact.
If you move one part slightly, it throws the next piece off a lot more.
I have to allow for fit tolerances, inside measurements, butt joints, etc
but I don't want to make the parts too small.

I think I will rely on the builder to trim as necessary (depending on how imperfectly they assemble).

And (not shown) there needs to be a little surface colouring at all the joins, so white doesn't show through.

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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #41 on: June 29, 2016, 07:31:49 PM »
Next up, I must design those Storage Bins for the sides
as they will be the main supports for the Fenders.

An odd triangular shape, with flat tops and bottoms,
and angled backs...to fit against the Hull sides.

I also threw in some extra parts for layered detailing.



...
Once assembled, I located their positions on the sides of the Hull
and glued them flat in place.

The tops are positioned about 2-3mm low to allow for the fenders.
However, I notice in various photos, that the Fenders sit at varied heights along the vehicle and on different vehicles.
I guess there is no perfect installation, which makes things a bit easier for me and this model.


I think, for future assembly, I am going to locate the Storage Bins on the undersides of the Fenders.
Maybe install them first, to the Fenders, and then fit the whole thing to the car?



...
A dry fit of the Fender...
shows me that the front angles aren't right.
I need to extend the front edge of the fender a bit.

I also need to adjust the angle at the rear, and add the Support Bracketry.

And I also have to design the little angled insert pieces for the front fenders
(where they connect to the nose of the Car).

More to come...

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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #42 on: July 01, 2016, 04:14:52 PM »
Finished up the fenders today...not perfect, but I can live with it.

redesigned the forward sections at least six times, trying to get the right shape
and get it all to line up at the nose.
As you can see in the photos, the leading edge still does not line up with the brackets on the Hull
but I finally got it on the same plane, and pretty close.

Judging from photos of the real thing, the leading sections of the fender need to be a touch longer.
So I have adjusted the Parts, which should bring it down even closer to where it should be.
I'm not going to rip apart my test build just for that, I'll leave these fenders as they are.

After looking at many photos of these cars, original and rebuilt,
I see that the fit and angles of these Fenders varies wildly.
Level...bent down...bent up...crooked...etc!
And I know I can't control how people build the model...

but thats okay...
as long as I get the basic parts close to where they should be.




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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #43 on: July 05, 2016, 05:10:38 PM »
So...the next thing I think I want to deal with, is the Suspension.
And thats going to start with Axles and supporting suspension for the wheels.
Which means,  I need a wheel.

I already have a design idea for a Wheel Rim and mounting Hub.
The Tire will be separate.
So lets start with that...

Because of the scale, I felt the need to make the Tires a bit more complicated.
I want to give them some of the proper rounded shapes,
and I am also hoping they will be flexible enough to create a bit of tire squash
(simulating the weight of the vehicle on the Tires)

Unfortunately, this all means a lot of parts.
Each Tire....not including the Wheel Rim...is 15 parts plus 5 joiner strips.
Mostly repetitive circular parts, there are also some tabbed joiners and the Tread details to cut out.



...
The design could change...especially if the Rim and Hub doesn't work.
But for now, this is what I got.

There are six wheels to assemble...but I only need one right now to start designing suspension.
So, in case the design does change, I won't build any more just yet.

Lets run through the Tire construction:

Step 1 is the center of the tire, which I split down the middle...
the two halves are conical shapes, with a slight angle, and a tabbed joiner strip for the center connection.
This will give a more rounded shape, rather than a squared off tire with flat tread.



...
I accidentally printed the sheet wrong, and rather than waste a sheet of cardstock,
I flipped it over and printed on the opposite side.
This means the backsides of al parts are not clean white.
So you'll have to look more closely to see things.

Heres the center part of the tire assembled with the tabbed strip.
That dark center seam will be hidden under the Tread part.

I've also started cutting out some of the ther parts.



...
The sidewalls of the Tire are made up of three rings with varying angles.
One ring actually has a negative cone shape.
Once again, this is all to create a more rounded shape to the Tires.

The seams of the sidewall rings also help to define some of the ribbed details on the real Tires.
I'll also be adding some (raised) detail rings.

Two tabbed joiner strips are used for all the Sidewall parts.



...
Outermost rings installed on both sides...
preparing the two other rings for one sidewall.

Another tabbed  joiner strip will be also used .




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