Author Topic: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project  (Read 3232 times)

Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #55 on: August 09, 2016, 04:12:34 PM »
Now that I have tweaked and adjusted and got the Suspension design to where I like it,
its time to continue test building...
and so I have started assembling all the necessary Suspension parts I'll need.

With six wheels, theres a lot of parts (not all shown here).



...
I'll do one more station (the opposite front wheel) and make sure my last adjustments
are all still okay...and then continue on from there.

First, I need to finish and install the opposite side Torsion Rods and brackets.
And you can see, I have installed all the inner Axle CV Joints.
Then, I fitted all the lower Control Arm brackets.



...
I made a number of small adjustments to the Control Arms
...the biggest goal was to get the center Spindle/Knuckle assembly into a more vertical position.
There is room to gently adjust the position of each Control Arm during assembly,
but I wanted to reduce the need for too much offsetting of parts.





...
I've got it to where the Ball Joint area of the Knuckle aligns almost flush with the ends of the Control Arms.
Its a good visual reference for assembly.
And it gets the Knuckle very close to the vertical position it needs to be in.





...
So now I will assemble a Hub and outer CV Joint and slip it onto the Axle
to make sure the Knuckle is positioned correctly...but all looks good at this point.
I'm confident I can continue with the other four suspensions.

There are still some more Suspension/Steering parts to design
...but I should be able to sort those out as I continue the assembly of these suspension parts.
Stay tuned.

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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #56 on: August 12, 2016, 08:23:16 PM »
Hub and CV Joint fit just fine
so I went ahead and finished all the Control Arm assemblies
and the remaining Hubs/CV Joints.

Time to fit it all to the chassis




...
And with all the suspension parts fitted,
its time to sort out the final Steering components
as well as all the Shock Absorbers.

And assemble five more tires & wheels!!

...oh goody (sarcasm)




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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #57 on: August 20, 2016, 11:13:06 AM »
Now that all the Control Arms, Axles and related parts are in place,
I am moving on...

there is a steering linkage that runs between the front pairs of wheels (four wheel steering).
Kind of a fulcrum lever that applies a reduced amount of turn to the center wheels
based on how far you turn the front wheels..

It took a couple of attempts but I finally got the design down.
At first I tried designing to exact scale, but it didn't fit quite right (within my parts).
It was also a bit difficult to build. Some parts too small.

So, I enlarged everything, without enlarging the overall size.
Made the parts a little easier to handle and assemble.
And it worked a lot better...while still retaining the overall look of the real objects.

I'm still test fitting...trying to get the end linkages to fit correctly.
Then I'll detail the assembly and installation.



...
I am also starting work on the Shock Absorbers.
At least I think they are all shock absorbers?
There are some varying shapes and sizes.
I'm going to stick to a minimum number of differences.

There are 22 Shocks in all (4 front, 3 middle, and 4 rear)
Middle and Rear sets have shocks outside of the control arms,
and some that run inside the control arms!
The Front shocks are all above the upper control arms.

Its a challenge first of all, to get the size/lengths correct.
I'm finding small differences in the way each suspension station has been assembled.
resulting in slight differences of the spaces available for the shocks.
I am imaginng that every builder is going to vary a little on how all their suspension parts go together.
So, I will have to allow for this.

There is also the assembly order.  What do you build first?
The shocks need to be fitted inside the control arms before the suspension is mounted to the Hull.
But that would make it incredibly difficult, with too many parts to handle (when fitting to the Hull).

So, I am making those center shocks a bit short.
They won't quite reach the mounting spots on the lower control arms.
They'll just hang in place.
I don't think this will be a big issue, because they are fairly well hidden once eveything is assembled
and shortening them makes them easy to install after the suspension is attached to the Hull.

Anyway...here is the second test build of a front shock set:




This shock set is still not quite right.
But close enough to test fit against the chassis and see what other adjustments I need to make.

I will be printing another set of test parts today
and eventually I'll get this sorted.

This is only the front wheels...center and rear wheels are still to come!




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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #58 on: August 23, 2016, 11:46:36 AM »
So, after four redesigns, I finally got the front Shock sets sorted out.

I'm not going for technical accuracy or perfection, but it has to look basically like the real thing
and it has to be my level of buildable.
That means somewhat simplified, as few parts as possible, and satisfying to the eye.

I had to tweak the angles to get the shocks in the correct vertical position,
but I also had to allow for variances in the assembly of the suspension.
In other words, you can adjust the angle of the Shock set to suit the position of the upper Control Arms.

I also modified the Shcok attachment to the upper control arms.
Rather than try to attach the shocks to the Arms, I made a plate to mount the bottoms of the Shocks
and then the plate can just sit on top of the Control Arm.



...
Heres a quick run through of the parts and assembly...

this is all the parts for one full Front Shock set ...left front Wheel actually.



...
Top Bracket is folded, glued...some layered parts attached for the Shock toppers.
Gussets for the top Bracket are folded, glued and cut out.
Shock tubes are rolled and glued.
Bottom bracket is folded, glued and cut out.



...
Glue the four shocks onto their marked locations.
Got to make sure the fronts/rear seams are properly positioned.

Gussets are fitted to the upper bracket.



...
Glue the tops of the Shocks into the upper bracket.
Its a tight fit, so you only need to make sure they are in line.
And then mount the whole thing to the Hull.



...
I also started work on the other Shock Absorbers (for the other four wheels).
There are no extra mounting brackets needed, just rolled Shock tubes.
Shocks come in two different lengths.

Some of the Shocks go through the suspension...some are positioned outside the control arms.
There is very little access into the suspension at this point.
I'd rather not go back and redesign the suspension.
And I don't like the idea of requiring you to put the shocks in place at an earlier stage than this.

So, what I have done is shortened the interior Shocks,
so that they can be manipulated through the holes in the control arms and into place.
Once inside, they will not attach to anything at their bottoms.
They are just glued at the tops, to the Hull.
In fact, visibility is restricted enough, that you will catch a view of tubes inside the suspension, but thats all.
I think that works.



...
And the outside Shocks also help distract your view.



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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #59 on: August 25, 2016, 06:27:42 PM »
I'm getting close to finished (with the Suspension)!!
Got all the Shocks installed today.

the shorter ones that fit inside the suspension are very easy to install!
But its a bit awkward getting them glued into place,
and keeping them vertical and in the right position.
A couple are crooked.

As I mentioned before, they are well hidden, so I don't think its a big concern.
The tops of each Shock are visible, and thats really all thats necessary anyway.

And...once the Wheels go, even more gets hidden from view!!



As you can see above, I also fitted the Steering lever between the front and middle Wheels.
The steering tie-rod linkage is the trickiest thing to assemble because of the small size of the parts but its a very simple design.

In the next photo you can see how the tie-rod linkages reach out and join up to the Wheel rim.
I didn't want to complicate it more, so I just left the Linkages to reach the back of the Wheel area
but they don't actually attach to anything.
Still gives you the impression that its connected to the wheels.



Next step is the Steering Box and front wheel Tie Rods.

Then I can tackle the five remaining Tires.
And that should be it for the Suspension and Wheels.
...


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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #60 on: August 29, 2016, 07:23:30 PM »
Latest progress...

Secondary Steering Linkages/Levers are done, as I showed in the last update.
I still have to assemble five more Tires and Wheels...and I'm already halfway through that!

The only thing left to finish the Suspension/Undercarriage are the two Steering Boxes.
And this proved to be a lot more frustrating than I imagined.

I don't know why I couldn't nail down the correct scale and shape of these components
but it took four designs, four builds, and three modifications to the final design!

Its some awkwardly shaped parts...sort of half way stuck out from the Hull on either side of the vehicle.
Main part being a large actuating lever (Pitman Arm basically) that operates a Tie Rod linkage to the front wheels.
My goal again was to simplify the design to a few basic parts.

The final design uses about 8 parts...some layered...and another Tie Rod Linkage assembly*
(*the same as the ones I created for the secondary Steering Linkage.)
I'm still gonna tweak it some more.

You can see an assembled Steering Box in the upper right of this photo.
It just glues flat to the Hull, just behind the front Shocks.
The tie rod linkage reaches out to the back of the Wheel.



...
With the two Steering Boxes installed on to the hull, that completes the Suspension!!!

As I said, I still have to complete the set of Wheels and Tires.
And once that is done, I can probably move up to the Turret.
Phew, this thing is finally coming together!!

Feast your eyes.






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Vermin King

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #61 on: August 29, 2016, 08:22:06 PM »
I couldn't help but smile when I saw the jack stands.  Outstanding work
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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #62 on: September 05, 2016, 02:29:16 PM »
Long overdue...Saladin update...

While trying to deal with the KoolWheelz model build
and preparations for the upcoming Model show in October (see here:)
I have been struggling with the Saladin.

Since finishing the Suspension parts, I've started work on the Wheels and Tyres, but thats gonna take some time.
I don't even want to think about the Turret until thats done.

Since I'm not doing any design work in the interim,  I went back to catch up on some of the instruction diagrams.
Unfortunately that hasn't gone well.
I have gotten so far behind with the instruction pages, that I now find it difficult to get restarted.

So, after a couple of days, I gave up again...LOL...and decided to look at the Exhaust parts that mount on the right rear Fender.

And thats when things went really sour.
Looks like I did not think ahead when designing and fitting the Fenders.
The angle at the rear section is wrong, and does not allow for the Exhaust components to be mounted there.

And its not as simple as bending the fender down...
because, not only does the fender edge Lip need to be modified,
the entire tail end section of the Fender will need to be wider (since the Hull tapers inwards as you get lower).

And I've already glued everything in place!!



...
So, my first step was to cut the fender free from the Hull.
Now it is clear of the Hull and I can bend it downwards easily.
I also notched the edge Lip to allow for this.

Unfortunately the damage to the Hull is not repairable.
This side will be somewhat hidden behind the Exhaust parts, so it might be okay.
The other side is a different story.
I'll deal with it later.

For now, I can make measurements and alter the design of my parts as needed.
I'm not going to try to remove these Fenders, I'll just have to figure out a way to move on.



...
After altering the Model Parts, I am fairly happy with the intended fit.

And I came up with a way to test the fit the new fender and fix things a little bit.
I printed and cut out the last section of the newly redesigned rear fenders.
Then I glued it to the top of my existing Fenders, lining up the outside edges (which haven't been altered).
The overhanging inside edge meets up with the Hull nicely (at the new angle)
and it hides the old (short fitting) Fender underneath.

I also decided to create a Jig...I might leave it in the kit...to help with the correct angle of the rear Fenders.
It doesn't have to be perfect.
I've already seen photos of Saladins with wonky Fenders and side skirts.
But it has to be near the correct angle so that other attaching Parts, like the Exhaust, will fit.



...
In this case, after I glued the fender to the Hull at the new angle,
the test Muffler components fit into place properly.

Now, I can focus on designing the proper Muffler Parts and the Heat Shield outer parts.

The Exhaust system is a large canister Muffler(Silencer)  bolted directly to the rear Fender.
An exhaust Pipe reaches from the Hull, to the underside of the fender.
The Muffler is covered by a sheet metal Heat Shield...just another canister really.



...
I happen to have a clear photo of a brand new Stainless Steel Silencer...with all its Hull mounting bracketry.
From this I was able to create the Silencer part.
Sorting out the bracketry wasn't simple.



...
After a few bracketry changes, it finally fits the Hull nicely.
Now I can focus on the outer heat Shielding.

As you see the Muffler supports itself, being anchored to the fender
and supported against the Hull.



...
But the Heat Shield is proving to be a challenge.
I've made it fit fairly snuggly to the Silencer canister.
This removes the need for any internal brackets or supports.
I just slip it on and leave it.

The problem is there are cutouts to fit around things, like the Hull brackets.
I don't have a clear photo showing the design of the cutouts.
There also seems to be small patch pieces put into place to fill some of the cutouts.

I don't just want to chop big holes and make the Shield completely inaccurate.
Chopping out pieces also affects the strength and shape of the part.
I have a couple of requests in to owners of Saladins for some photos of the Heat Shields.

I also don't know if the Silencer is supposed to be painted or left bare Stainless.
Obviously the visible bracketry is painted to match the vehicle.






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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #63 on: September 15, 2016, 11:24:03 AM »
I feel like nobody is left watching this....lol...but, the updates will continue along with the work.
Hopefully its still of interest to someone.

I have actually not done much work on the Saladin for some time.
The focus, after the Suspension parts were completed, has been on assembling the six wheels and Tires.
Once that is done, I can move on to the upper Body and Turret.

I have one Tire and Wheel already assembled.
Working on two more right now.
Not really a difficult assembly...just slow going because of all the parts that are needed.
Many discs, and ringed parts, along with all the tabbed joiner strips, make for some tedious cutting.

So, six wheels is gonna take some time!



...
In the meantime, I have managed to finish the Exhaust components.

I tried to get some information from some Saladin owners on a British vehicle Forum, but no responses.
So, I finally decided to wing it, and guess on a couple of things (based on the photo reference that I already have).

I decided that the Stainless Steel Silencer (Muffler) assembly can stay unpainted, however the exposed areas
of the Muffler Canister and mounting brackets should be oversprayed with the vehicle colour.
As if the Exhaust was assembled and mounted on the vehicle and then spray painted.



...
Once the Muffler Canister is assembled and the Brackets are "welded" in place,
the entire thing is covered with a metal outer casing (that just slides over the Canister).

I was unable to determine exactly how this Cover is cut to fit over the bracketry.
It appears to have large chunks cut out of it...but I don't have a photo that shows clearly.
So, I measured and made the minimum amount of slotted cuts to allow its installation.



...
I did notice in photos, that there appears to be some patches fastened to the cover housing,
most likely to fill the gaps and re-strengthen the cover.
Once again, no clear photos or help from the forums...so I made it up.

Its very simple to slip the cover onto the Silencer Canister, and then attach the filler plates.



...
I also did some thinking on the exhaust pipe attachment (under the fender).
I designed and installed the splash plate that covers the Silencer inlet and exhaust pipe coupling.
It just mounts to the underside of the fender extension.

But I decided to omit the actual exhaust pipe connection which attaches to the side of the Hull
and then disappears under the Fender splash plate.
That pipe is small and very awkwardly shaped.
A flange with two parts that quickly connect into one pipe, while turning 90 degrees ,
and then making two more bends as the pipe disaapears under the cover plate into another flange connector.

It would be a small and difficult part to design and assemble.
Its also well hidden under the fender and behind one wheel.
I decided it was a detail part that is too difficult for me to include in the kit
and is best left to the builder to scratch build if they want it.



...
Anyway, I finally fitted (permanently) the Silencer assembly to the Hull and fender.
And I am very happy with the final design.



...
Keep in mind, I have made a few alterations to the final parts based on this last assembly and installation.

I was eyeballing the placement on the Hull (based on photographs)
and I mistakenly attached the Silencer too low on the fender.
It needs to move further forwards, raising it higher in relation to the hull.

I also noticed it was a little too far out from the Hull, and so I shortened the bracketry by about 1-2mm
moving the entire Silencer assembly inwards, closer to the Hull.

These adjustments have been made in the Kit parts, but my model will stay as is.



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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #64 on: September 21, 2016, 11:52:56 AM »
Got three Wheesl/Tyres finished!

Wow, lots of parts to cut out.
Assembly is really not that bad...unlike building tank Tracks! lol

Once you get everything cut out, shaped, edge coloured and ready to assemble,
a Wheel goes together fairly easily and quickly.
Only thing that slows me up is waiting between parts for the glue to properly setup.

Anyway, just printed all the Parts for the second set (3) of Wheels.
Once thats done i can move on to the Turret and stuff.

Ignore the Wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle, its my early (oversize) prototype.



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Dave Winfield

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Re: 1/16 British Saladin Armoured Car project
« Reply #65 on: October 05, 2016, 10:13:40 AM »
Finished the remaining Wheels last night!
woohoo!
Once you get rolling (! lol) with the parts, the wheels come together quite quickly.
Its just one of those areas that there are many parts to cut out.
A lot of hoops and ring parts
Time consuming and very repetitive.
My method was patience...focused on getting a little bit done every night.
I'm estimating 10-12 hours of total work (for the last three Wheels).



Six wheels fitted to the vehicle.
Haven't glued them in place yet...but I will eventually.
Its neat to have wheels that rotate, but they move out of place on the Hubs.
And i notice that the very first wheel installed has started to get loose on the Hub.
Obviously the paper is weak and the center hole is wearing bigger.
Another reason to glue the wheels in place.



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